Overview
Mount Pisang Peak rises from the yak pastures above the village and features a uniform slope leading to the final summit pyramid, which is an undistinguished snow and ice slope. It is a beautiful and scenic destination for tourists in Nepal. The mountain is particularly fascinating from a curved ridge, with the face above the peak forming the truncated southern end when viewed from the Ogre. The mountain consists of steeply slanting rock, with the dip slope facing the valley and visible as large rock slabs further down the valley.
Despite being well-known, much of this mountain remains unexplored. The entire western side of Pisang Peak is guarded by a hanging glacier, making it a challenging climb. The summit ridge, which connects to a northern summit before curving back west, offers a superb climbing opportunity. However, access to the western end of the ridge is complicated due to the presence of large rock slabs. A German Expedition team was the first to summit this 6,091-meter peak in 1955.
Monterosa Treks and Expedition organizes Mount Pisang Peak Expeditions each season. Feel free to contact us for more information.
Conquering Mount Chulu West and Mount Chulu Central can be done from a base camp in a small valley north of Manang, situated off the main route to Thorong La Pass (5,416 meters). From here, you can enjoy the best views of the peaks. The North-West Ridge starts beyond the hut, following the yak pastures and ascending a ridge that leads into a hidden valley. This area offers an ideal location for the base camp.
The climb involves ascending steep slopes to a col at 4,900 meters (16,076 feet), located on a subsidiary ridge descending from the main ridge. North of the col, you climb a snow slope for 200 meters to reach the base of rock bands at 5,100 meters, where a high camp can be established.
The rock band leading to the north-west shoulder of Chulu West (5,450 meters / 17,880 feet) is quite difficult to climb. Alternatively, a camp can be set up on a snow plateau above 5,530 meters (18,143 feet). During the first ascent, ropes were fixed on the rock band. From the plateau, the narrow ridge is followed to the summit, which stands at 6,250 meters (20,505 feet).
The return journey follows the same route. Monterosa Treks and Expedition organizes this challenging expedition every season for climbing enthusiasts.